INVICTA 'Chronomètre à renversement' No 14189


£ 1,745.00

Good Swiss gold hunter with rare pivoted-detent escapement, circa 1910.

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Engine-turned pink gold 18K double back case stamped with the Swiss assay mark on all covers and the pendant, with plated bow as sold. Gilt three-quarter plate keyless g-barrel movement jewelled to the centre. Pivoted-detent chronometer escapement with patented banking system. Compensation balance, 6-turn blued-steel helical balance-spring with fine adjustment index. Fine enamel dial marked Chronomètre, original gold hands. 53 mm diameter and weighing just under 110 grams gross.

This Swiss watch company based in Chaux-de-Fonds has roots that go back to 1837. It first registered the 'Invicta' name in 1896 after being awarded a gold medal at the Bordeaux National Exhibition the year before, as is celebrated on the cuvette of this watch. See Pritchard for more information.

F Jaquet and Girard, Swiss Patent No 25896, awarded in March 1903. A loosely mounted index on the staff that engages with a pin in the plate if the balance arc becomes too large (over approx 700 degrees). This prevents the probable derangement to the escapement caused by the action of the unlocking jewel passing in the same direction twice. NB: Most Swiss pivoted detent movements do not have this form of safety feature, which appears to work well in my experience.

Faint hair crack at the edge, at 5, some wear to the engine-turning and with inexpertly executed monogram and touching-in of the engine-turning on the cover, the bow showing the usual loss of plating. The movement in good clean condition but showing some signs of age. Despite these minor faults, this watch is a fine example of this rare patent escapement. Serviced, guaranteed and ready to wear.